Karen's Suncatcher Corner: 9 Steps For Creating Stained Glass Suncatchers

There are basically 9 steps for creating stained glass suncatchers that will make the job of project construction easier to accomplish.

• Design Your Pattern on Paper

The first step in creating stained glass suncatchers is to decide on what you want to create and then put it on heavy stock paper. Business card stock or heavier works well.

Pattern design can be as simple as cutting stained glass triangles, squares, hexagons, octagons, circles, half circles or combining these into an attractive design.

More challenging complex pattern designs such as multi-part scenes, fish, angels, animals, insects, holiday motifs, etc. can also be created limited only by your imagination.

Decide on what you want to create, put it on paper and make sure it can be turned into a stained glass suncatcher.

Beginners often create deep detail when designing their patterns only to find later that the pieces are extremely difficult or impossible to form into a finished suncatcher.

Avoid sharp curves and very small pieces that cannot be cut from glass or properly foiled.

• Transfer Your Paper Pattern To The Glass

Once you're satisfied with your paper pattern and are sure that it can be easily made into a stained glass suncatcher, it's time to transfer your pattern onto the glass.

You can cut out the paper pieces with double cut scissors, identify and number them by color and trace each piece onto the glass with a white glass marking pen.

Alternately, you can make or purchase a "light box" or "light table"to trace the pattern directly on the stained glass. This is a time saver and almost a necessity for serious artisans.

Whichever method you choose, make sure you take into consideration the amount you need to deduct from each piece for the foil or lead came method of construction you plan to use.

• Cut The Stained Glass Pieces

After your pattern is transferred to the glass, cut out each piece and finish it to size using your grinder, glass band saw or circle saw. Dry fit all the pieces and make sure they fit precisely before going on to the next step.

If you plan on using the foil method of construction:

Wash each piece of stained glass with a dish detergent and thoroughly dry before beginning to foil your project.

Choose the correct width of foil and carefully foil each piece you cut out in the previous steps. Make sure you burnish each piece so the foil sticks properly during the soldering process.

If you plan on using the lead came method of construction:

• Stretch The Lead Came

Using a lead came vise or a partner with a pair of pliers, stretch the lead came you plan to use for your suncatcher to relieve the "stress" in the metal.

Don't stretch it too much or you will not be able to fit the glass into the slot in the came.

The point here is to remove any kinks in the came and to reduce it's total dimensions.
The stretching actually changes the internal composition of the lead and makes it easier to work with.

• Cut The Lead Came To Length

Cut each piece of "H" came to fit around each piece of stained glass making sure that the next piece buts into the cut without leaving any space.

The outside "U" channel should be cut in the same manner, to but up to the "H" came without any space.

Use a came saw, came knife, miter saw or an "Exacto" saw to cut the lead.

• Assemble The Lead Came Around The Glass

Dry fit all the pieces of your stained glass suncatcher on your workbench and flux all the came joints on both sides of your pattern in preparation for soldering.

• Solder All The Lead Came Joints

Solder all the joints in your stained glass suncatcher first on the front side. Make sure not to use too hot of an iron or to hold on the joint too long. Either can put holes in the came joint and cause an unsightly appearance.

Flip your stained glass suncatcher over and solder the back side using the same technique.

Always apply solder to the top of the flat side of your iron and briefly touch the solder joint to get the best appearance and strength.

• Cement Your Finished Suncatcher

Cement your finished suncatcher using the process described here.

• Add Additional Reinforcement When Necessary

Occasionally it may be necessary to add reinforcing bars to your suncatcher project when it is constructed using the foil method and has a large number of cuts or is larger than 3 feet square.

Normally all foiled stained glass projects larger than 3 square feet should be reinforced in some manner.

The weight of the individual pieces of stained glass held together by the soft copper and lead solder joints can cause the panel to bow, flex, and eventually fail.

There are two popular methods used to reinforce larger stain glass projects.

• Adding reinforcing "bars" into the design.
• Adding a strong line over the top and or sides of the existing project.

We will be posting more on reinforcing various stained glass projects in the near future.

That's all there is to it. Sit back and enjoy your stained glass suncatchers!

How To Cut Plate Glass Correctly For Beveling

Learning how to cut plate glass correctly can be a tad more difficult than cutting the different types of stained glass you normally use for suncatchers.

The main difference between the two, is the thickness of the glass.

Beveled glass is usually made by taking 1⁄4"thick clear plate glass and creating a one inch bevel on one side around the entire periphery.

Once the bevels are cut, they act as prisms in the sunlight that create a color diffraction that highlights the glass work and provides a color spectrum which is absent in clear glass.

Cutting plate glass is different from cutting thinner glass because the break must travel completely through the thickness of the glass, as well as along the score line on the surface of the glass.

If the break doesn't go completely through the thickness of the glass, there will be a point somewhere along the cut where you will lose the clean break and have a jagged edge.

When you first start cutting 1/4" plate glass, it might look like the break is going through the entire thickness, yet the glass still doesn't break apart easily. This is relatively common problem when first learning how to cut plate glass.

Plate glass is softer than art glass. This means that you do not need to press as hard with your cutting tool when scoring the glass.

Many beginners make the mistake of pressing too hard and chipping the surface. Light pressure is all that is needed for a crisp score line.

The trick to a clean plate glass cut is to firmly tap the glass opposite the score line with the ball end of your glass cutter until you see a crack begin to "run".

Tapping releases tension along the score line and allows for a clean break on the scored side of the glass.

You might occasionally find some chipping on the side opposite the score which is sometimes created by tapping. This is relatively normal when learning.

When learning to cut plate glass correctly for beveling purposes; the chipped side is always the side you should plan to bevel.

As with stained glass, the more waste glass you have around your finished pattern, the easier it is to tap out the piece you need for your bevel.

Cut plate glass the same way you would cut stained glass.

Cut out your inside curves first and then get rid of the straight cuts and inside curves. Use your running pliers after tapping each line you score.

Long straight cuts on plate glass are the easiest to make.

Use a straight edge to score your line and then put your glass cutter underneath the scored line about an inch or so from one end. Then with your hands on both sides of the score, push downward sharply.

Do this on a short pile carpet or padded surface, NOT on a hard base floor or counter top.

You can also use a piece of dowel or anything else of like size as a fulcrum for making the break. Just keep in mind that this technique only works on plate glass 1/4" and under in thickness.

To make narrower straight line breaks, use your running pliers or firmly hold the piece of glass against the edge of a firmly mounted counter top with the score line opposite the counter top edge and push sharply.

It's always a good idea to wear gloves if you're not used to doing this.

The video below shows how easy it is for the professionals to cut plate glass correctly.

Learning how to cut plate glass correctly for beveling stained glass suncatchers is not that difficult, like anything else it just requires a bit of practice.

How To Cut Stained Glass Suncatchers Correctly

Learning how to cut stained glass suncatchers correctly is not difficult, so long as you have the proper tools and guidance.

Although suncatchers are relatively simple projects that do not require many cuts, there are some suncatcher patterns that require a huge number of cuts like the lionfish project I am currently working on.

Regardless of the amount of cuts in your project, it is important that you learn how to cut glass properly.

The cutter is your primary tool and there are many designs for you to choose from.

Oil filled glass cutters are popular but not really necessary. The purpose of having an oil filled handle is strictly to help lubricate the cutting wheel and keep it rotating smoothly.

Contrary to popular belief, having oil on the glass does not help the cutting process one bit. The cutting wheel actually scores the glass easier and better without cutting oil on the surface of the glass.

I have beginners tell me that when oil is not used, the glass will crack.

I tell them that you want the glass to crack; that's what glass cutting is all about.

You apply a steel wheel to the line you want to cut with enough pressure to score the glass; then once scored, you crack it along the scoreline.

The reason for using oil is to lubricate the wheel and keep it turning if it gets clogged with fine glass dust particles.

Professional glaziers seldom use oil and most of them consider it a waste of money.

There are two basic types of handle designs to choose from when selecting your glass cutter.

• The pistol grip
• The regular long straight handled grip

The pistol grip, as the name implies, is a bent handle that resembles a gun grip.

It requires less pressure to cut stained glass with the pistol grip cutters than it does with the regular grip cutters. Elderly people and beginners with weak wrists normally prefer this type cutter.

Regular grip glass cutters have a long straight handle and are generally preferred by professional glass cutters, instructors, and tradesmen. The choice is entirely up to you. Both types work well for almost all projects.

What is important is that the sharper the cutting wheel, the finer the score line will be and the most likely your glass will break where you planned to break it.

When learning how to cut stained glass suncatchers correctly, you will need to get a good set of stained glass cutting pliers.

You will need two types of pliers to cut stained glass suncatchers correctly:

• Running pliers
• Drop jaw pliers

Running pliers are used to “run” a curved or a straight cut made with your glass cutting wheel. They have a slightly concave and convex curve and are adjustable to the thickness of the glass you are cutting.

When the running pliers are centered on your score line, the bottom part is placed directly on the line. As the pliers are squeezed, the glass is forced to bend slightly and breaks along the entire score.

Drop jaw pliers have one jaw of the pliers set lower than the other and are used to increase leverage when making longer or circular cuts.

Generally, serious glass cutting artisans prefer purchasing steel pliers to the plastic ones however, sometimes plastic cut runners are better. It just depends on the type of glass that is being cut.

It is not always necessary to use cut runners, especially when you are in a hurry; just use your hands.

This YouTube video shows three glass cutting methods that should help you with cutting straight lines.



To cut stained glass suncatchers correctly, place a piece of newspaper under the glass you intend to cut before you score your line. The newspaper keeps your glass from sliding and helps catch small pieces of glass when you make your cuts.

Always look for the shiny or smooth side when deciding which side of the glass you want to score.

Always keep your cutting wheel perpendicular to the glass when making the score.

Apply about three to five pounds of pressure as you move your cutter from one edge of the piece to the other.

Make a single smooth crisp score across the glass. Don't hesitate or run your cutter back and forth over the piece. All this does is dull your cutting wheel.

A smooth score should look like a fine hair line across the glass if you use moderate pressure and a single smooth scoring motion, from the beginning to the end of Your line.

When done properly, you should hear a distinct scratching noise as you move your cutter across the glass.

Too much pressure on the cutting wheel will cause the glass to give off small chips along the score line which will dull your cutter. Not enough pressure on the glass and you won't hear the distinct scratching noise.

Usually when you do a few practice cuts you will get the hang of it and recognize the distinctive cutting sound.

Break the glass immediately after you score it.

This can be done using your running pliers, your hands, by placing a pencil or dowel under the score line and applying pressure to both sides of the score, or by placing the score line on the edge of a table and applying pressure to the part hanging over the edge.

Don't expect your first attempts at glass cutting to be perfect. Use cheap glass to practice on until you become confident with your cutting ability.

Learning how to cut stained glass suncatchers correctly can only be accomplished with lots of practice and patience.