Thursday, December 26, 2013

RemovingCracked Pieces Of Glass

Removing cracked pieces of glass in the middle of a project can be a royal pain in the posterior, but this simple tip can make it a relatively easy chore.

Recently, one of my stained glass suncatcher projects that was hung by a suction cup on the kitchen window, hit the floor. 

At first I thought the project was a gonner, but when I inspected it, there were only two pieces broken.  Unfortunately, both pieces were in the middle of the suncatcher.

Removing cracked pieces of glass in the center of a completed project requires breaking the glass into smaller pieces for removal.  The trick is to break out the broken piece without breaking any additional pieces!

The solution came to me when I was in the local Ace Hardware store.
A spring loaded center punch.

Now it's easy to break up the cracked piece of glass. 

Just place the punch in the area you want to knock out and let the spring do the work.

Once the cracked piece had broken into smaller pieces, it can be easily removed from the surrounding glass and the foil can then be removed with ease. 

Most of the time the foil simply falls from the surrounding pieces.  If not you can use your iron to help with difficult spots.

The spring loaded center punch is also great for removing cracked pieces of glass from came projects. It releases the glass with a minimum of distortion to the came.

Spring loaded center punches can be purchased at most hardware stores, Home Depot or Lowes in their tool departments.

Next time you mess up a project, try removing cracked pieces of glass the easy way.

Thursday, November 28, 2013

Take A Walk By The Seashore

You can always take a walk by the seashore if you're running out of ideas for creating stained glass suncatchers.

Sound stupid?  Not at all.

If you live close to the ocean like I do and walk the beaches, you can often find a plethora of shells and rocks washed up during the high tides.

The ocean is a giant natural rock tumbler and whatever is washed ashore during the high tide is usually found in a somewhat polished condition.

An ordinary oyster shell or a broken piece from a larger shell is often unrecognizable as a shell.  Instead it takes on the aura of a piece of art that can be incorporated into your stained glass suncatchers.

An hour walk by the seashore can load you up with enough treasure to keep your mind occupied with new creations for some time.

Shells for use in stained glass suncatchers, wind chimes or in mobiles are prepared in the same manner as your stained glass.

You may need to grind the edges of shells thinner to accommodate foiling but you foil the shell the same as your glass.

Once foiled and burnished, you can tack the pieces to the glass pattern and solder as you normally would.

Ocean "tumbled" oyster shells make a beautiful unique addition to any stained glass suncatcher, wall hanging, wind chime or mobile pattern and they don't cost you a thing!

Next time you have the opportunity to take a walk by the seashore, be sure to bring along a couple of gallon size freezer bags to put your shells into.

Arts & Craft Books

Saturday, November 9, 2013

Fun With Bottles

If you're into stained glass, you can have fun with bottles and recycle them by incorporating them into your stained glass projects.

How to make them part of your stained glass project is entirely up to your fertile imagination however, here are a couple of ideas you may want to consider.

Cut off wine bottle bottoms to create unusual stained glass windows or wall hangings.

Use your grinder to reduce the edge thickness of the bottle bottoms to match the stained glass you are using, foil and then solder together as you would any other stained glass project.

Cut the bottoms off various sizes of different colored bottles to create unique wind chimes.

   Once the bottoms have been cut off, grind the edges even, drill holes in them about 1/4" in from the edge and tie them together using monofilament or PowerPro Braided Spectra Fiber Micro Filament Line - 100-150 Yards.

Wall hangings and panels are a great way to use the bottoms of colored bottles or a bottle cut in half lengthwise.

The video below shows how to cut a bottle in half lengthwise using a band saw.  The trick is to go slowly and let the blade do the work.

The idea of cutting the tops of bottles to make a set of drinking glasses has been around for years.

Once you cut the bottles tops off (using the method of your choice) you need to smooth the edges so they are suitable for drinking.

The best and easiest way to achieve a "factory" edge on your newly created drinking glass is to use a propane or Mapp Gas plumbers torch.

Mapp gas burns hotter than ordinary propane so pay attention when heating up the glass.

Once you adjust the torch to get a blue flame, heat the entire glass evenly and gradually concentrate on keeping the flame on the rough edges around the rim.  The sharp edges will eventually melt into a bead.

Heating the glass EVENLY is important to keep the glass from shattering.

Personally, I don't like drinking from "bottle" glasses because of their rim thickness.  I prefer using the cut bottles for indoor planters or making wind candles.

Some stained glass artisans have fun with bottles by breaking or cutting different colored bottles into manageable pieces and using them in suncatchers or wall hanging projects.

(This requires a kiln to slump or flatten out the pieces.)

The video below shows one method of cutting the tops off of bottles using the Gryphon C40 glass cutting band saw.

Another method I use on a regular basis that works just as well requires a jig and is less costly, but takes longer.

First you need to make a simple jig using 3/4" (1x4) pine boards and a few sheet rock screws or glue to hold the bottle secure when scoring.
  • Cut two pieces of the 1x4 about 16" to 18" long and screw or glue them into a "V" shape.  
  • Next make the bottle stop by screwing or gluing a 7" or 8" piece of 1x4 to one end of the vee.  The bottom of the stop needs to be flush with the bottom of the vee.
  • You can add a hand rest if you like by screwing another piece of 1 x 4 to the shorter side of the vee and to the back of the bottle stop.
That's all you need to hold most bottles secure enough to make an even cut around the circumference of the bottle.

Place the bottle in the jig with the bottom flush against the stop and cut around the circumference with your glass cutting tool by rotating the bottle slowly and keep the cutting wheel on the glass until it meets on the other side.

As soon as the bottle is scored, you need to tap the score from the inside with a "tapping" tool to break off the top of the bottle.

You can either purchase a tapping tool or make one from a length of brass rod bent at the end with a nut or some other weight soldered up from the bend to add weight.

The list for having fun with bottles is endless, but the main trick is learning how to cut the bottles easily without hurting yourself in the process.

Arts & Craft Books

Thursday, October 10, 2013

What To Do With Scrap Glass

What to do with scrap glass is something we all have to contend with if you have been creating stained glass projects for any length of time.

But what exactly is scrap glass?

In our society where waste is commonplace; I believe that there is no such thing as scrap glass or scrap anything for that matter.

Scrap glass is nothing more than unused small pieces of beautiful colored glass.  Like garbage, scrap to one individual is a gold find to another. 

I'm quite sure that L.C. Tiffany didn't regard the tiny pieces left over from his lampshades as scrap.  He simply used them to create other more intricate patterns.

Other than the obvious uses for "scrap glass" (mosaics, wall hangings, small suncatchers, etc.) the real problem is how to organize unused pieces so you can easily find them in the creation of new projects.

Organization by size, the type of stained glass and the color will bring some order to the chaos of your scrap glass box.

Once order is achieved, you can use your fertile mind to create uses for each category or mixture of stained glass categories.

Now, what to do with scrap glass?
  • Most stained glass artisans use their scraps in mosaics of some type.  
Smaller scraps can be glued to a variety of bottles, plates, trays, objects, etc. to create unique mirrors, picture frames, stepping stones, suncatchers, wall hanging, table tops, or even to fill in small floor areas.  

If you are using small scrap glass for any floor area where there is a danger of being cut by the sharp edges, it pays to "ease" the edges of the glass shards by tossing them in a rock tumbler like the  Lortone 3a Tumbler - 3lb Capacity - TUM-110.00 pictured at the above left.
  • If you are into creating unique lampshades like L.C. Tiffany;  scrap glass already has a great end use for the creation of intricate lampshade patterns.
  • Smaller sized stained glass suncatchers are always a great end use for smaller pieces of scrap glass. 
  • Windchimes and mobiles are a great end use for scrap glass pieces.   
The smaller pieces are perfect for making small birds, butterflies, crosses, free style pieces, etc.  

Small wire loops can be used for the hangings or you can drill the glass when practical to do so.
  • Scrap glass can be slumped and fused to create a variety of projects  if you happen to be the owner of a kiln. 
Finally, if you have run out of fresh ideas you can always sell your scrap glass on eBay, donate it to a shcool or a church group, or just give it all away to someone who really needs it.

Remember, there is really no such thing as scrap glass.

Arts & Craft Books

Saturday, September 21, 2013

Using Glass Beads In Your Suncatchers

Using glass beads in your suncatchers is an easy inexpensive way to brighten up your stained glass creations.

Flat oval or round glass beads have a variety of  end uses.

They are commonly used in mosaics, jewelry, stained glass lamp shades, wind chimes, wall hangings and even on the bottom of tropical fish bowls as a substrate.

Flat oval beads are the most suited for use in stained glass suncatchers because of their reflective qualities and because they are relatively easy to foil.

Round beads can be used but they are much more difficult to foil and solder into a project.

When added to your stained glass suncatcher projects, glass beads provide a "custom" touch that easily distinguishes your creation from others, even when using identical patterns.

Oval glass beads are made in a host of colors but for use in stained glass suncatchers, we recommend using opaque, translucent or clear colors to get the most light distribution.

Incorporating glass beads into your suncatcher creation is easy.

Just clean the glass beads like you would the rest of your stained glass and foil the edges in the same manner.

Make sure that the foiled edges are burnished well before you begin to solder the beads into your pattern.

This will eliminate any possibility of the beads popping out of the finished piece at a later time.

You can purchase flat oval glass beads at any arts and craft store or online.  EBay and other online auction sites are good sources for a cheap supply of beads.

If you haven't thought about using glass beads in your suncatchers and you want to create something a bit more unique, give it a try!

Arts & Craft Books

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

What Is A Mega Blade?

Some followers have emailed us questions about the Mega Blade for the Taurus 3 ring saw.

Specifically, what is the Mega Blade?

The Mega Blade is a "super duty" ring saw blade that is intended to cut thick glass, stone, marble, granite, etc.

Taurus 3 MegabladeBecause of it's unique profile, the ring saw blade cannot cut in all directions like conventional ring saw blades.

It only cuts in the forward and backward direction.

The profile of the Mega Blade looks like a teardrop if you could view a cross section of it, with the rounded part of the teardrop cutting in the forward direction.

Mega Blades are interchangeable with conventional Taurus ring saw blades and are replaced in the same manner as described in this short video clip.

Installing the Taurus "mega blade" 

Since I primarily work with stained glass suncatchers, wall hangings, panels and Tiffany style lamp shades; I have no need for one, and have not yet purchased a Mega Blade.

However, I have heard from others that they work very well cutting thicker glass into intricate shapes and also for making blanks for beveled glass pattern pieces.

Any comments on the blade and their effectiveness would be greatly appreciated.

Arts & Craft Books

Thursday, July 25, 2013

How To Preserve Your Marks On Glass

It has always been a problem to preserve your marks on glass and keep lines from running when grinding pieces for your stained glass suncatcher projects.

We have used virtually every type of "waterproof" marker known to man at one time or another with only limited success.

Even the so called indelible markers will start to run after grinding for an extended period of time however, we have recently been using a product called Mark Stay with a great deal of success.

Mark Stay 2 - 1 Oz. preserves your stained glass pattern marks on virtually any type of glass.

It seems to be the secret to pattern lines staying on glass while using a wet saw or grinder.

All you need to do is apply a thin film over any type of mark and start grinding.

Mark Stay 2 - 1 Oz.Not only is the product is easy to use, it's non-toxic and washes off with glass cleaner, flux remover, or just plain soap and water.

I get personally get crazy when I start grinding a small piece of glass and my "indelible" pattern mark washes off the glass.

Mark Stay II Extra Heavy Duty professional mark preserver for glass grinding, sawing and beveling was apparently created for me just to preserve my sanity.

Beginners and professionals alike could be saving yourself a lot of regrinding time and trouble by using this or a comparative product.

We welcome and comments you have concerning it's use.

Arts & Craft Books

Thursday, July 4, 2013

How To Clean A Taurus Ring Saw

The ring saw is a necessity if you are into making intricately designed stained glass suncatchers and learning how to clean a Taurus ring saw in particular, is much easier than you might think.

There are several steps to cleaning a Taurus 3 Ring Saw

  • First, remove the clear plastic face shield by simply pulling it off.
  • Next, remove the upper door side plate again by pulling it off and out.
  • Lift out the work table surface, remove the saw from the tub and set it aside.  
  • Pour out about half of the cooling water from the tub and leave the remaining water in the reservoir to help loosen the remaining glass residue when you scrub it out . 
  • Wash out and rinse the reservoir of any remaining glass particles. 

That's all there is to it. This video from Delphi shows how easily it's done.


If you want to really clean up the saw, add some liquid dish detergent to the reservoir after cleaning out all the debris and run the saw for several minutes before rinsing it out again.
If you currently have a Taurus 3 Ring Saw, feel free to comment on your experiences using it both pro and con.

The only complaints we have to date is how noisy it operates.  Unfortunately, you can't put a muffler on a saw!

Arts & Craft Books

Friday, June 14, 2013

How To Cut Circles From Thick Glass

Learning how to cut circles from thick glass is slightly different from cutting circles out of thinner types of stained glass or art glass.

The thickness of the glass matters however, with care and a few tips you can cut circles from thick glass without too much extra effort.

The first tool you need to acquire for your workbench is a good circle cutter.

Both the Silberschnitt Pro Circle Cutter or the Toyo Circle Cutter are top of the line cutters that with proper care, will last you a lifetime.

The only other tool you need to cut circles from thick glass is a fiber or plastic ball peen hammer to start the "run" in the scoreline that you created with the circle cutter.

These are inexpensive and can be found in most hardware stores.

Except for the fact that you can't use standard running pliers on glass that is 1/2 inch thick or more, the instructions for Cutting A Perfect Circle Out Of Stained Glass are generally the same.

It takes a fiber ball peen hammer and a delicate touch to start and continue running the scoreline.

The video below shows how one miss-step can ruin your project if you don't have that "delicate touch".

Although learning how to cut circles from thick glass doesn't really have much to do with making stained glass suncatchers, we do feel that knowing how to do it is of value.

Arts & Craft Books

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Cutting A Perfect Circle Out Of Stained Glass

There are times when cutting a perfect circle out of stained glass is necessary to create or finish a stained glass project.

When these situations occur, especially when you need to cut several identical circles, it's best to purchase a good stained glass circle cutting tool.

Although it is possible to "freehand" cut glass circles, it is obviously less time consuming and easier on your hands to simply buy a good circle cutting tool such as the Silberschnitt Pro Circle Cutter or the Toyo Circle Cutter.

Toyo Circle Cutter

Silberschnitt Pro Circle Cutter

Some stained glass suncatcher patterns, glass wind chimes and modern "deco" style wall hangings integrate several sizes of circles in their construction.

For these type projects, you will find that a good glass circle cutting tool makes all the difference in the world.

Although using a circle cutter is not that complicated, it does require a bit of instruction to create a perfect circle every time.

  • First, you need to find the center of the piece of glass you are using to cut the circle from.
  • You need to leave at least an inch of glass around the perimeter of the circle.  Never start the circumference cut from the edge of the workpiece.
  • Make sure you have sufficient cutting oil on your cutting wheel.
  • When scoring your circle, it's important that you make one continuous scoreline without overlapping the scoreline at your starting point.  You will hear a faint "click" when you finish your scoreline correctly.
  • Turn your work over and gently put pressure on the scoreline with your fingers to start  running the break.  Work your way around the circumference until the run is complete.
  • Next, turn the work over and make four scorelines from the circumference of the circle outward to the edge of your workpiece at the narrowest points.  Start from your scoreline to the edge of the workpiece.
DO NOT score inwards from the edge of the workpiece into the circle.
  • Finally, use your running pliers at each of the four scores to break out the circle.

In the video below, the instructor demonstrates how to cut a perfect circle using the above technique.

As you can see, cutting a perfect circle out of stained glass need not be intimidating.  After a couple of practice cuts, you can be doing it as well as the instructor.

Arts & Craft Books

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

12 Tips To Make Your Glass Cutting Easier

These 12 tips will make your glass cutting easier to accomplish.

Cutters Mate Commercial Model  

1 - Always purchase the best glass cutter you can afford to buy.

A good glass cutting tool is an absolute necessity and will save you money in the long run.  In addition, a good glass cutter will help you make accurate cuts more comfortably over a long period of time.

You will appreciate a good glass cutter if you get into making Tiffany style lampshades where tedious multiple cuts must be made over a long period of time.

Get a cutter with a comfortable handle and a high quality carbide steel wheel.  These cutters are long lasting and contoured to fit your fingers so more downward pressure can be easily applied to the score line.

Cheap steel cutters have neither of these features.

2 - Always use some sort of cutting lubricant on the wheel of your glass cutter.

If you purchased a good self lubricating cutter, use a name brand stained glass cutting oil in the handle reservoir or as a last resort, mineral spirits. 

It's also a good idea to occasionally dip your cutting wheel into the oil to ensure a frictionless score.

Mineral spirits is easier to clean up but unless you get the odorless type, it has an objectionable odor to it.  A good cutting oil doesn't smell, is a smoother lubricant and is less harmful to your skin.

3 - Always use the right size wheel for the glass you are cutting.

The smaller the wheel, the less pressure is needed to make a crisp score line. 

Wheel size is the determining factor in how much pressure is needed to penetrate the surface of the glass.

For thin or standard thickness stained glass, a small 1/10th of an inch diameter wheel is what is needed.

The wheel angle also affects how glass is cut. 

For thin or standard thickness stained glass, a 120 degree or 135 degree wheel angle is what is required and for glass thicknesses over 10 mm, a 160 degree angles is what is recommended.

Among others, the Silberschnitt Adjustable Oil Wheel Easy Grip Cutter and Toyo Pistol-grip Supercutter are recommended for professional cutting of standard and thinner stained art glass.

4 - Always cut your glass at room temperature.

Believe it or not, the temperature of the glass affects how easy it is to cut. 

Warm glass is less brittle and cuts easier than cold glass so if your glass is in a colder storage area, consider letting it achieve room temperature before cutting.

5 - Always score the smooth side of the glass you are cutting.

Ripple glass, glue chip, artique and some other types of stained glass often have one side smoother than the other.  Always score the smoother surface of the glass for ease of cutting and cleaner breaks.

6 - Always apply even pressure and move at a uniform speed when cutting stained glass.

You should hear a consistent sound as you make your score.  If your score sounds scratchy or crackly, too much pressure is being placed on the cutting wheel and the glass is actually breaking apart around the wheel from the excess pressure.

When done properly, you should hear a smooth "zinging" sound as you make your score.

Obviously when cutting thicker glass, more pressure is needed to make a good score. 

Some instructors suggest measuring the amount of pressure exerted by placing the glass on a scale while making a score line however, experience is the best teacher. 

7 - Use you whole body when scoring glass

If you stand up and slightly away from your workbench when making a cut, you have a tendency to keep your cutting wheel more perpendicular to the surface of the glass.  This stance gives you a more even score than if you are sitting next to your workbench cutting with just your arm or your hand.

If you use your whole body you'll find that cutting circles, arcs and close cuts become much less of a chore.  You can move around as you make your cut and apply pressure more evenly to the glass as you score.

8 -  Always keep your score line as close to the middle of the piece you are cutting as possible.

Try to position your score so that there's is an equal amount of glass on each side of the score.  This prevents the glass from breaking below the scoreline.

A break below the scoreline always moves to the side where there is less glass.  This gives you an edge that flares out from the score line. 

If you are cutting a bunch of narrow strips as you would for wind chimes, start with a piece of glass that is much larger than the amount of thin strips needed.  Then cut each piece exactly in half, and then each of the other remaining pieces in half, until you have all the strips you need.

Keeping an equal amount of glass on each side of your score line will give you perfect strips that are as narrow as the glass is thick.

9 - Always make your score from the interior of the sheet when cutting curves.

Glass always tends to run as directly as possible to the edge of the piece that you are cutting.

It stands to reason then, that when you are cutting a complex shape, start running the circle or complex curve away from the edge of the glass you are cutting.

10 - Always break out your glass immediately after making your score

If you walk away and let the glass sit too long, the scoreline will begin to develop fractures that will radiate along the entire length of the scoreline.  This will give you a "dirty" jagged edged cut.
If you break out your glass right after you make your score, you will achieve a clean cut almost every time.

11 - Always avoid tapping your scoreline

For some reason many of us were taught that tapping the scoreline before breaking out the glass helps with the break.

The truth is that tapping the scoreline usually leaves you with a jagged edge.  If you feel you just have to "tap" a thick piece of glass, tap it directly underneath the score line; not from the top.  This minimizes any jagged edges.

12 - Never score twice over the same line.

When you score over the same scoreline twice you will dull your cutting wheel and probably still not make a clean cut.

A better solution to a bad score is to turn the glass over and carefully score along the same line and break the glass apart as you normally would.

This saves your cutting wheel and will give you a more professional cut.

Most of the above 12 tips to make your glass cutting easier  you already know about however, some of them you may not have been aware of could save you time and money with your stained glass suncatchers.

Arts & Craft Books

Thursday, March 7, 2013

Using Pre Cut Stained Glass Patterns

More and more newcomers to stained glass have begun using pre cut stained glass patterns for suncatchers, plant stakes, wall hangings and other relatively simple projects.

Pre cuts for stained glass and mosaics are relatively new in the marketplace.  The patterns used for stained glass suncatchers are usually small and seldom contain less than a dozen pieces as you can see by this Pre-cut Rooster Ring Kit.

Pre cut stained glass patterns, like beveled glass insert patterns, are an easy alternate to cutting the glass yourself.

For those who desire "instant gratification" and have the extra green to spend, using pre cut stained glass patterns can definitely be the way to go.

Pre cut projects take the first step out of the creation process, glass cutting. However, you still need to foil, solder and patina the pieces to finish your project.

Many newcomers have a difficult time cutting glass. Others feel that glass cutting is the most difficult and time consuming aspect of the creation process.

Both are candidates for using pre cut stained glass patterns for their projects.

In many instances we believe that using Pre Cut Stained Glass patterns can be helpful, especially if the pattern you have chosen has many small pieces.

The nominal cost for purchasing a pattern is often less than the time it takes to make a lot of small precise cuts, especially when the pattern is to be used as an integral part of a larger glass panel or wall hanging.

Beveled glass pattern inserts also fall into this category.

The cost of purchasing a beveled cut glass pattern is infinitely less than the amount of time it would take for you to create a beveled glass pattern on your own; providing you have the equipment to make one.

For beginners the same principle applies.

There is one drawback to using using pre cut stained glass patterns and that is the practice you lose cutting glass to size.

When working with glass; practice, practice and more practice is necessary.

The more you practice, the closer you get to achieving perfection.

 In closing, we recommend using pre cut stained glass patterns as a time saver but in the long run, the more glass you cut yourself, the faster and better you become.

Arts & Craft Books

Sunday, February 10, 2013

Stained Glass Suncatchers

Stained glass suncatchers have become an important part of interior decoration and almost a "fashion trend" in terms of artistic representations in our society.

Stained glass suncatchers can be hung either indoors to reflect sunlight from a window, or outdoors from a patio or porch enclosure.

Handcrafted stained glass suncatchers add a unique dimension to almost any decor and can be fabricated in a multitude of themes and abstract designs.

Stained glass suncatcher design themes are wide ranging.

A simple Google search will find you design themes like birds, fish, floral patterns, animals, abstract designs, cartoon characters, insects, etc. that are applicable for use in any decor.

Because the colors of the glass are chemically inside the glass molecules; stained glass suncathers are indelible, waterproof, safe and will forever retain their original color and clarity.

This makes them perfect for use in decorating kitchens, patios, children's rooms, etc. without having concerns that the colors will peel or flake off the project.

Stained glass wind chimes or stained glass hangings used in conjunction with wind chimes can make an interesting, inexpensive, decorative audio/visual improvement to any breezy outdoor patio.

Because of the interaction of colors and lights that stained glass suncatchers provide and their ease of construction, they have become one of the most popular DIY projects for hobbyists in the United States.

Suncatchers, wall hangings, church windows, lamp shades and a myriad other projects are cut from colored stained glass and fabricated in accordance with specific time enduring techniques that are easy to learn and master.

Quality stained glass tools makes all the difference when cutting, grinding, adding copper foil, and soldering stained glass suncatchers.

Using the proper supplies makes it much easier to create pieces you can be proud of giving to your friends or selling to customers.

Inexpensive stained glass tool kits are a great option for beginners. 

This site will continue to promote the innovative art of fabricating unique stained glass suncatchers in future posts by offering time saving tips and information on new products and techniques as they become available.

All constructive comments are greatly appreciated.   

Arts & Craft Books

Friday, January 25, 2013

Setting Up A Taurus Ring Saw

Setting up a Taurus ring saw is literally a snap.

After you finally decide that you need to purchase a ring saw for cutting and grinding intricate stained glass pieces, setting it up is really a simple process.

There are only three pieces you need to snap together before you add water to the reservoir and begin using your glass saw.
  • First, snap the face shield to the body of the saw handle.
  • Next, snap the ring saw into the grooves in the water reservoir.
  • Add water before dropping in the work surface.
If you live in an area where the water is excessively hard, add a bit of vinegar to the water.  Also, it's a good idea to add a couple of drops of liquid dish detergent to the water to help lubricate the cutting ring.

This short clip illustrates how to do it.

Ring saws are not for everyone but if you decide to purchase one, they are definitely a time saver when working with intricately designed suncatchers, wall hangings, lamp shades, etc.

The Taurus 3 Ring Saw also accepts a "Mega Blade" which can cut thick pieces of glass, marble, granite, etc. into intricate shapes. 

The profile of the Mega Blade is unique in that it looks like a teardrop and cuts in the forward and reverse directions only.

It is not intended to cut in any direction like standard ring saw blades do.

One thing is sure, once you own a ring saw, you'll wonder how you managed to work without one for so long.

Arts & Craft Books